Kuala Lumpur is. a sprawling metropolis. As the capital of Malaysia, it is an financial and governmental hub, but in many ways it is the anti-mullet: all business in the front and no party in the back.

First of all, the same diversity of cultures and religions and languages that I encountered in Ipoh are here, just all bigger and bolder. The laid-back countryside style of Ipoh makes way for urban chaos. There’s a combination of wealth and poverty here that is much more extreme than in Ipoh. The Ferraris and Lamborghinis plying the roadways also are matched by the homeless and beggars in the markets and neighborhoods.

One shouldn’t underestimate the financial and economic growth of Malaysia in the last few decades. For example, when the Patronas Towers opened in 1998, they were the tallest buildings in the world. Today, not only are they not the tallest buildings in the world, they aren’t even the 2nd tallest buildings in Kuala Lumpur. Merdeka 118 and Exchange 106 buildings are both taller than the Patronas twins.

There are neighborhood markets and big malls, there are huge mosques and massive parks, but overall there isn’t a lot that a normal tourist would do. Coupled with the 95 degree, 95% humidity weather, the overall effect is one that makes you want to grab a book and hang out by a pool or stay indoors as much as possible.

Given my quip about the reverse mullet, there’s certainly a party scene here, mainly with tourists and ex-pats trying to replicate a club and party scene from back at their homes. Not all that interesting.

Speaking of which, I can’t recommend enough the Le Meridien hotel attached to KL Sentral train station. It’s a calm oasis in the middle of the urban clutter. The staff are friendly and welcoming, bordering just on the appropriate side of being nearly obsequious. The food in the various restaurants is great, and the club lounge has some of the best views of the city you’re going to get.

My only complaint is that they don’t stock Vermouth at the pool bar, so Martini’s are not on the menu. That and maybe the suspiciously high number of employees named “Lisa” and “Josh” in a hotel in SE Asia. I hope the management is not forcing employees to westernize their names.

Is KL worth a visit? Sure, but in the reverse of the adage about visitors being like fish, a stay in KL starts to age in a couple of days.