Luang Prabang, Part 2
Posted July 27
I have been in Luang Prabang a little over a week now. I’ve been able to settle into a rhythm and see the town from the tourist and local side.
My initial thoughts haven’t changed much. It is a calm and serene place. There are some “touristy” areas of town that gather more outsiders, but other than a pretty small section of the main town and the key tour stops outside of town, the rest seems to be unvisited by the majority of the tourists.
Because of the way the town concentrates the tourist activities, you don’t have to go very far before you’re into the neighborhoods where locals live.
Neighborhood walks in Luang Prabang
The food in Luang Prabang is dichotomous as well. There are a lot of restaurants catering to tourists, but there at least an equal number of establishments that cater to locals. Luang Prabang, having once been the capital of its own empire, developed its own cuisine as well.
Among the things that Luang Prabang claims to have originated is Larb (or larp or laab or laap depending on the westernization) and most restaurants have their own secret recipe. They’re all exceptional, so you can’t go wrong here.
Like everywhere in Laos, the Lao have been exceptionally friendly. I have seen a little more of the tourist town hustling and offering of rides, tours, and souvenirs, but nothing like other countries I’ve visited. It’s subtle and polite.
Larb with Sticky Rice
As I get ready to travel to Hanoi in a couple of days, I realize that I’ll be leaving this peaceful, small town, and Laos behind. Feeling rested and centered, I’m ready for the very well publicized chaos of Hanoi, and the very different approach to tourists and visitors in Vietnam.
If you ever have a chance to visit Luang Prabang, I’d certainly recommend doing so. That goes for Laos as a whole, which has been unfailingly beautiful, friendly, and delicious.
Sometimes cats turn out to be lizards.
Luang Prabang Gallery
Longboats on the Mekong
There's a long riverside walk with lots of restaurants and cafes, all of which have a little hook to pull you in.
Another riverfront cafe
French colonial architecture is everywhere
One of the many stupas at the many temples
A ceremonial boat housed at a temple
A ceremonial boat that has been converted for land parades
A monk at a temple
The temples have such ornate decorations
Several vintage cars are available to rent so you can live out your imperial cosplay aspirations
More French colonial architecture
The main tourist street with lots of shops aimed at tourists
The temple on the grounds of the former Royal Palace in Luang Prabang
One of the oldest stupas in Luang Prabang
A large street-food vendor court. It's very active in the evening.
The temple that was directly next door to my hotel. 5AM chants are a nice wake-up call
A lady pours one out for the spirits of her ancestors before the Alms Ceremony
The morning Alms Ceremony
The Mekong is gorgeous throughout the day
The view across the Mekong from the ferry
Kuang Si Falls
A different section of Kuang Si Falls
The view from the top of Kuang Si Falls
The night market
Morning Coffee along the Mekong
The stupa at the top of Phou Si Hill
Bamboo Cages that used to contain songbirds. People buy them and release the birds for good karma
A monument to the first Prime Minister of Laos after independence
Some of the colonial era buildings are not in great shape anymore
The temple on the grounds of the Royal Palace
The temple on the grounds of the Royal Palace
The former Royal Palace, now a museum
The gas pumps on the Royal Palace grounds. The king was a fan of cars and there's a large garage
Happy hour overlooking the Mekong
The Phou Si Hill Stupa from street level
One night the electricity went out at the Night Market, so everything continued with candles
A particularly beautiful Plumeria on Phou Si Hill
A woman selling karma birds. There's interesting economics of selling/purchasing karma
The Royal Palace as seen from Phou Si Hill